Lactofermentation
Sharon July 17th, 2008
Usually I’m pretty fearless when it comes to the tough topics. Want to talk about whether you probably should not do as I do, reproductively speaking? Whether religion has anything good to add to peak oil and climate change discussions? Why there are mostly white people in the conversation? Even the most controversial topic I’ve ever gotten into - whether people should use dishwashers or not? I’m for it - I’m right there diving in.
But I’m drawing a line in the sand here, folks. Here is a controversy I’m not willing to touch. I will not discuss whether Sally Fallon and the Weston-Price folks are the Savior of Mankind or the Anti-Christ. I just won’t. For those of you who don’t know, Sally Fallon wrote a book - IMHO, it is a very good and interesting book on nutrition. In it, she advocates many controversial things, including the fermenting of nearly everything. This book comes up every time I talk about lacto-fermentation. Now while I do like this book, I also think it is suffers from a common literary disease, known as “I’m fighting the conventional wisdom syndrome” - that is, when someone decides that they and they alone can overturn the conventional wisdom, they tend to get, umm…polemical, and they tend to try and make the distinctions between them and others very, very blatant - when often the distinctions are simply finer than they would like them to be. You see, if you are setting yourself up as someone who stands against the tide, you want it to look like the tide only ever goes in one direction. IMHO, the book is good - but not all the truth that ever was.
Now the thing is, people feel very strongly about this book, and about the Weston-Price Foundation to which Fallon is connected. They either really love it, and everything about it, or really hate it - and many people who feel very strongly about this book feel that others should feel as strongly as they do. They feel it quite loudly. Since I don’t feel nearly as strongly, and this is my blog, I’m going to play evil censor here, and ask that we contain the whole _Nourishing Traditions_ discussion and its merits and demerits and save it for another day, so that we can concentrate on actual lacto-fermenting. Because, IMHO, even if you don’t believe everything Fallon says, lactofermented foods taste amazing, they are extremely good for you, and that’s enough reason to add them to your diet.
Lactofermentation is pretty simple - a salt brine is created, strong enough to kill off unwanted bacteria, mild enough to encourage lactic fermentation, which makes things sour and yummy. It isn’t too picky - fermentation is faster in warm weather, slower in cool, so you want to watch it closely if you do it in the summer time. Otherwise, easy peasy. And the food is delicious, and nutritious, and amazing - I can’t say enough good things about most lactofermented foods. Best of all, they are alive, and contain good enzymes that are good for you - for example, kimchi contains a natural antibiotic specific to e-coli, and so may other lactofermented foods, so these are good to eat with meats.
My own passion for this stuff comes in part from a real liking for the taste and in part because during each of four pregnancies, I threw up between 20 and 40 times every single day for four straight months. The category of things I could eat without throwing up was very, very small - and kimchi, sauerkraut and brined pickles were among them each time. They were one of the few things that made me happy during those 16 months of hell. I am not the only pregnant woman who could eat these things - they are a classic remedy for morning sickness in many countries. Thus, they can do no wrong - and have only happy memories associated with them.
Add to this that lactofermentation is the only form of food preservation that actually makes the food more nutritious than if it wasn’t fermented - fermentation makes nutrients available, and foods more digestible, so we get more benefits. Napa cabbage, made into kimchi, is more nutritious than fresh napa. Regular cabbage, transformed into sauerkraut has more accessible vitamin C, and is more digestible, and doesn’t cause gas in most people the way regular cabbage does. There’s really not a downside.
Now you may think you hate all these foods - if you’ve only ever eaten canned sauerkraut, you have no idea how delicious they are. They also don’t have to be that sour - because these are living foods, you can adjust the sourness to taste. A lot of my favorite kim chi panchan are very mild, even sweet and tangy. Others are flaming hot (which I love). So they are worth experimenting with.
The best books on this subject are Sander Katz’s great _Wild Fermentation_ - he has a website with a bunch of recipes and a lot of info on it here: http://www.wildfermentation.com/, Fallon’s book _Nourishing Traditions_ and Linda Zeidrich’s _The Joy of Pickling_.
Ok, here’s the basic project - it works for making fermented (often called kosher-style) pickles, for pickled grape leaves, sauerkraut, kimchi and a host of other good things. You make a brine with some salt and water - kimchi a bit more, pickles a bit less. For kimchi, I use 3 tablespoons of salt to a quart of water, for pickles 2 tablespoons. If you are fermenting in warmer weather, a stronger, saltier brine will be useful, if in the cool weather, you can use less. But it isn’t a very picky process - I’ve used quite little salt too. But that’s about standard.
Chop up your vegetables (if chopping is called for) and dump them into some kind of non-reactive pot, crock or container. Make a brine by mixing the salt and water until it is dissolved. Let the veggies soak overnight if fairly finely chopped, or 48 hours if whole cukes - weight it down with a plastic baggie full of water or a plate covered with a weight - you want minimal to no exposure to air, but enough leakage to let gasses out (this is super important with daikon radishes, because they make explosive gasses - ask me how I know ). Take the vegetables out, reserving the brine, and then pack them into a container that you plan to use, but now add spices, and flavorings. Pour enough brine to cover, and leave it in a reasonably cool spot, no higher than 68 degrees, until it tastes like what you want taste.
The easiest way to ferment kimchi is after the initial brining, simply to pack the cabbage into jars, leaving a little headspace, add hot peppers, garlic and ginger, a little sugar and put them in mason jars with the rings on very lightly - the gas can get out, much air can get in - but the traditional method is a barrel or a crock with a lid that can be used to press down. Or the baggie method works fine.
How long to ferment? Kimchi usually takes about a week, depending on how strong you like it. Pickles can take several weeks, so can sauerkraut. The key is to keep tasting it.
What’s the downside? Well the downside is that these are living foods - they don’t keep forever, unless you can keep them very cool (fridge temps) or unless you can them. And the bad part of canning them is that you kill many of the living organisms that make them so wonderful - and some of the taste. If you have a fridge, putting them straight in the fridge will let you keep them for months - my kimchi and sauerkraut keep for about four months in my root cellaring space, which averages about 35-45 degrees. But the foods do get sourer and sourer and stronger and stronger as you go on. And they are pretty salty.
On the other hand, they are soooo good - stuffed pickled grape leaves, dill pickles, mustard pickles, kimchi of all sorts, sauerkraut with dried cherries, juniper sauerkraut…ummm….
What do you do with them once you have them? Well, we like sauerkraut in lots of things - with meats, in eastern-european style pies, etc…. Kimchi we eat in soup, and also stir fry with garlic and tofu or meat. Pickles we just plain eat - and all four of my kids can keep up even with me. Grape leaves we stuff.
Ok, I will post recipes, but I have to do some family stuff first - later, I promise. In the meantime, check out Katz’s site and this place for great kimchi http://www.treelight.com/health/nutrition/UltimateKimchi.html
Sharon